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In contrast to Zanzibar , which has become increasingly popular in recent years, Pemba still receives very few foreign holiday visitors. The island is a mixture of natural forests, mangrove swamps and clove plantations, which Pemba exports in even greater quantities than Zanzibar . The traditional villages on Pemba are primarily in the interior and have had little impact on the coast. Consequently the coral reefs around island are largely in pristine condition. It is these two factors - the unspoilt nature of the island and its colourful marine life - that are the main attractions of Pemba .
Pemba is a large island and part of the Zanzibar archipelago, lies a full 40km north of its sister island north of Unguja (the island people refer to as Zanzibar), originally named Al-khudra, "the Green Island" by the Arabic mariners in reverence of the profusion of much fertility they encountered after their journey south along the arid coastline . The green island of Pemba is richly swathed with wide-spreading mango trees and willowy cloves. Pemba was essentially the main clove producer in the Zanzibar archipelago, and at one time was the world’s largest producer of the spice. Clove harvests are traditionally laid out to dry in the sun and their invigorating scent fills the air.
This unspoilt, rural island is a world away from the tourist crowds, yet its waters are among the best in the world for diving and fishing. It is said that Captain Cook buried his treasure on a nearby island, but these days this stunning landscape is reward enough, fulfilling even the most romantic aspirations. |
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Pemba is a paradise for experienced divers, who will discover that the waters around Pemba provide some of the most fantastic wall dives and drift dives, fine soft and hard coral formations and open water diving opportunities that this East African coastline has to offer. For many people the attraction of Pemba is often more focused on the coral reefs and waters that surround it than the coral rag island at the centre. The incredible depths of the Pemba Channel, which shelf off to depths of more than 2000m between the island and mainland Tanzania, has made all the aspects of Pemba famous for the serious size of its sea fish, which include barracuda, tuna, shark, and even whales cruising its perimeters.
Natural surroundings, especially in the Forest Reserves such as Ngezi Forest, and Kigomasha Peninsula in the north of the island, and around the coral reefs and marine life. Other attractions include a number of stone and coral rag ruins of ancient Swahili and Shirazi (check again) settlements dating from the 11th century onwards. The evolution of this unusual ancestry continues to thrive on the island, and visitors experience a smiling welcome from each of the three main towns and all the villages, which are awash with a vibrant hubbub of daily activity and colour. For fun alternatives, negotiate boat and island excursions on traditional ngalawa outrigger sailing boats or pikipiki motorbike, (although be sure to take out adequate insurance, and drive carefully!). Pemba is a fantastically green and natural island, with masses of unusual and endemic wildlife to excite nature lovers. This tiny island has four endemic bird species, the Pemba White-eye and the Pemba Sunbird are common throughout the island, and Ngezi Forest Reserve, (see below), a tall tropical forest filled with slanting sunlight and unusual wildlife action, is the best place to try to spot the Pemba Green Pigeon and Pemba Scops Owl. Here also you can see the unusually squat and characteristic endemic Pemba Palm Tree, and might catch a glimpse in the gathering dusk of the island’s endemic fruit bat, also known as Flying Fox, and their endemic Galago Bush Baby. The whole island is surrounded with magnificently unspoilt coral reefs, and both shallow deep waters allow for some of the best snorkelling and diving opportunities on this east African stretch of coast. Offshore islands such as Misali Island in the southwest, accessible from Chake Chake, are surrounded with reefs and have excellent remote beaches for day trips to enjoy them.
At certain times of year, around December and in July, when all the crops are harvested and stored, the people of Pemba let their hair down by organising bullfights, a legacy of their one-time Portuguese colonialists.
This island also has its fair share of superstition and sorcery. The quiet island of Pemba is renowned along the east African coast for the powers and abilities of its Waganga, or witchdoctors. Belief in witchdoctors and sorcery remains rife throughout East Africa and Tanzania , and remains prevalent alongside and still underlying more recent religious beliefs introduced in the last 2000 years. Tanzanians are known to travel to Pemba , (and also regions of the Usambaras), to find appropriate Waganga to cure, or supposedly also to cause, especially difficult or evil acts of sorcery, called Uchawi.
Although Pemba is surrounded by fine coral reef and pristine seas its shores are also flanked with dense mangrove forests, and the best beaches take a bit of finding and getting to. Zanzibari beaches in general are subjected to tidal extremes, and many of these around Pemba expose coral patches and sea grass at low tide. These reefs can then be explored on foot, but suitable footwear is advised.
Pemba is the ideal location for total relaxation in the sun, sand and sea, and a marine paradise for scuba and deep sea divers. The pristine coral reefs are spectacular offering a colourful undersea adventure experience, the world’s most unique underwater seascape. There is plenty of opportunity to visit local fishing villages and massive clove plantations reminiscent of days in which Pemba was the world’s number one clove producer. |
