The southern third of the country is its most populated, developed and varied region. It is also the part which shows the greatest European influence. With Blantyre-Limbe forming the commercial "capital" of Malawi, it is the region best known and most visited by those coming from overseas.

South Malawi is a region of physical contrasts. Much of the area is dominated by the River Shire (pronounced shiray) which snakes its way southwards from the Lake still running through the rift which is occupied by the Lake. The river falls some 1300ft (400m) from its exit from the Lake to the point in the south where it crosses into Mozambique. This fall brings it to just 125ft (40m) above sea level. On its journey southwards, the Shire crashes over falls and rapids (which hindered David Livingstone’s upstream journey in the past) but has its more leisurely stretches though broad plains.

There are two substantial lakes in the region: Malombe and Chilwa. The River Shire flows through Lake Malombe which is just 6ft (2m) below Lake Malawi. The lake has attracted a number of fishing villages to its shores. Chilwa, east of Zomba, is part marsh and part lake. It is accessible from Zomba and is an interesting place to visit.

South Malawi is certainly not all plains and valleys. This is the region of central Africa’s highest peak, Mount Mulanje, which rises to nearly 10000ft (3000m). Impressively, Mulanje is only seventy miles from Malawi’s lowest point, just over 100ft (30m). Not too far from Mulanje is the region’s other great massif, the Zomba Plateau. This table-like mountain is over 6000ft (1800m) above sea level with sheer scarp-like edges.

To the west of the Middle Shire Valley is the continuation of the Dedza Highlands and to the east is a high ridge, the Shire Highlands, a plateau area standing at 3300ft (1000m). Blantyre stands on this plateau but is surrounded by isolated peaks which stretch to over 5000ft (1500m).

The Lower Shire Valley is a broad flat plain of which there are excellent views as one descends the Thyolo escarpment from the plateau on the southern route out of Blantyre. Much is cultivated, including sugar estates, and the scenery greatly contrasts with that in any other part of Malawi. A national park and two game reserves are to be found here. At the southern end of the valley is Elephant Marsh, once the home of thousands of elephants but now famous for its birdlife. This natural marsh changes in size as rainfalls fluctuate. One day it may be drained to provide agricultural land.

Without the cooling effect of high altitude, the Lower Shire Valley is where Malawi reveals its tropical location by high temperatures, especially in November-December.

BLANTYRE-LIMBE
is the country’s commercial capital and the largest urban area in Malawi, with a current population in excess of half a million. This settlement has its origins with the Scottish missionaries from the time of David Livingstone (It is named after Livingstone’s birthplace in Scotland.) Today it is unquestionably the centre of Malawi’s industry and commerce. Strictly two towns, Limbe and Blantyre form a continuous urban area yet retain their individualities and separate cores. Blantyre has the status and much of the administrative functions but Limbe is the more industrial.

The centre of Blantyre is conveniently compact with most of the services and shops around its triangular central core. This compactness belies the suburban sprawl reaching up towards the surrounding hills.

Blantyre has a number of historical buildings of interest. These include the original town hall (Old Boma) and Mandala House, built in 1882 as the headquarter of the African Lakes Company. It was Malawi's first two-storey building and is believed now to be the country's oldest house. Perhaps the most impressive is St Michael and All Angels church, built by men with no training in architecture, construction or even brick-making.

Visits can also be made to the Museum of Malawi and Carlsberg Brewery, which lie bewteen the two town centres, as well as the tobacco auction floors on the edge of Limbe. Both towns have a good range of shops, markets and services. Blantyre-Limbe has its own international airport at Chileka.

ZOMBA
is the former capital of the country and seat of government, just forty miles north of Blantyre. In a beautiful setting below the plateau of the same name, this was the first settlement of the colonial administration. It has some interesting buildings and monuments. The Cobbe Barracks are home to what were the King’s African Rifles (now the Malawi Rifles) and a clocktower serves as their World War I memorial. The Gymkhana Club and old Residency of the first commissioner of Nyasaland are wonderful relics of the town's colonial past. Zomba is also home to the University of Malawi, the old parliament buildings and one of the country’s State Houses. A small botanical garden and wonderfully sited golf course make the most of the lush low slopes of the plateau. Some 15 km (9 miles) or so outside Zomba is the notorious Mikuyu Jail, where Dr Banda incarcerated many of his political prisoners. There is simple accommodation in the town but the Zomba Plateau is often the choice of tourists.

THE ZOMBA PLATEAU
is a unique great slab of a mountain rising to 6000ft (1800m), it has vast tracts of cedar, pine and cypress but elsewhere the vegetation is wild and mixed. The plateau top is criss-crossed by streams and there are tumbling waterfalls and still lakes. There are driveable tracks right round the top from which are views of such splendour that they were described in colonial times as "the best in the British Empire". Whether walking or driving, there is always something to see. Wildlife includes leopards, although sightings are rare. More in evidence are giant butterflies and, on the lower slopes, baboons. Birdlife includes the long-crested eagle and the augur buzzard.

LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK
Although only 220 sq miles (580 sq km), Liwonde is perhaps the most popular of all the game parks. It is about 100 miles (160 km) north of Blantyre and only rather more than half that distance from the hotels on the southern Lakeshore. Additionally, game viewing is enhanced because the River Shire flows along its western border.

Wildlife includes quite large numbers of elephants and the river attracts countless hippos and crocodiles. Antelope include kudu, sable and bushbuck. There are lions and leopards and, more recently, the black rhino has been re-introduced. Birdlife is exceptionally varied. The river attracts fish eagles and weaver birds build their nests in the thin woodland. Pel’s fishing owl is often seen at dusk along the river’s edge

.LOWER SHIRE VALLEY
South west of Blantyre, the Shire river enters its final phase before leaving the country and joing the great Zambezi in Mozambique. This is the Lower Shire Valley, an extension of the Rift Valley and home to no less than three national parks/wildlife reserves. The river descends to the lower valley via a series of rapids and waterfalls before broadening out to meander along a wide floodplain utilised by vast sugar plantations. These are Malawi's lowest areas, with altitudes below 50 metres above sea level. Access down to the Lower Shire Valley is along the M1 south of Blantyre and down the steep Thyolo Escarpment, which affords glorious views into the valley. Once in the valley, game vieiwng is offered in the Majete Wildlife Reserve, Lengwe National Park and Mwabvi Wildlife Reserve.

Another important element of the Lower Shire Valley is its cultural heritage. The Lower Shire Heritage Trust’s objective is to preserve and promote the culture of the Lower Shire Valley and the traditional ways of life of the people of the area. At the gate of the park is a heritage centre – Tisunge! (which is the Chi Chewa for ‘Let us preserve!’) – Lower Shire Heritage Centre – boasting a small museum, an arts & craft shop, a library, and there are plans for a children’s club, a repository and a weaving area. Many ethnographic objects, from traditional and modern culture, have been collected in the villages with the aid of staff from the Department of National Parks, the Department of Culture and many volunteers. These objects, together with archaeological findings and the history and environment of the park, shall form part of the exhibit which is in the process of being set up. The Trust, through Tisunge! has also initiated several projects relating to the preservation of culture and the environment.

Before Livingstone’s arrival the Lower Shire Valley was famous for its weaving industry using locally grown cotton. In colonial times the raw cotton was sold to the English and shipped to England where the cloth was made and hence the weaving industry in Malawi completely disappeared. The cotton is still locally grown and the Trust, with the aid of the National Museum of Malawi in Blantyre, has reintroduced the traditional weaving, spinning and dying in the villages surrounding Lengwe National Park. The people have picked up the trade and this locally made, beautiful, cloth is now sold at the Tisunge! arts & craft shop.

The Trust also aims to assist in the preservation of the environment by planting indigenous trees along the Nkhombedzi river to strengthen its banks. This river that runs through the park and the surrounding villages is prone to flooding. The planting and care of the trees is the responsibility of the local football and netball teams. This year the Trust hopes to start a small plantation of 10,000 indigenous trees on land made available by one of the local Group Village Headman – Chief Singano – who himself is an ardent conservationist. Visits and guided tours to Tisunge! and other cultural sites in the area can be arranged.

MOUNT MULANJE
The scale of this truly magnificent mountain has to be seen to be appreciated. Its bare rock flanks tower to almost 10000ft (3000m), dwarfing all that surrounds it. It lies to the east of Blantyre and is easily accessible. Visitors can drive round the foot of the massif in a day but even more attractive is to trek and camp on the mountains. There are choices between quite gentle walking and serious climbing. Arrangement can be made to hire camping equipment and the services of guides.

Once on the mountain the vegetation changes with altitude and there’s plenty of wildlife from the klipspringer, a tiny antelope, to various other small mammals and, of course, a variety of birds. The latter include buzzard, the black eagle and countless white-necked ravens. Fishing for trout is possible in the River Lichenya which drains the south-western slopes.

THYOLO TEA ESTATES
Between Blantyre and Mount Mulanje are the Thyolo (pronounced "Cho’lo") tea estates. Tea has been grown here since 1908 and the primly trimmed bushes (strictly trees) give the whole area the appearance of a neatly kept but vast garden. By arrangement it is possible to tour some of the estates and see something of the work of these plantations.

Malawian tea can now be found in many local supermarkets in the United Kingdom particularly in the Fairtrade products section.

LAKE MALAWI NATIONAL PARK
This is the world’s first freshwater national park and a World Heritage Site, and is situated at Cape Maclear. The park includes a land area around the cape and bay as well as the Lake and islands up to 100 metres (330ft) off shore. Here is a veritable aquarium of tropical fish providing a colourful kaleidoscopic display. The countless thousands of freshwater fish, the mbuna, are more abundant and varied here than anywhere else in the world. Boats are available for hire and the fish will feed directly from the hand. Away from the Lake, the park has baboons, antelope and hyrax, and, of course, there is a great variety of birdlife including fish eagles, cormorants and hamerkops.

Excellent new up-market operations at Cape Maclear combine accommodation with lake activities. Danforth Yachting have a lakeside lodge as well as a 38ft catamaran; while Mumbo Island and Domwe Island Camps offer idyllic island getaways. Cape Mac Lodge offers accommodation and activities from Chembe village. However the new Pumulani Lodge, already world renown is one of Lake Malawi's top lodges.

On the southern lakeshore is the evocatively named Monkey Bay, but the visitor is more likely to see signs of industry rather than monkeys. This is a little Lake port with a sheltered harbour behind the Cape Maclear headland. It is a construction and repair centre for the Lake’s limited shipping.

The greatest concentration of lodges and hotels is on the Southern Lakeshore between Mangochi and Monkey Bay. Along this stretch are half a dozen or so hotels, most with adjacent camping sites. They vary from sophisticated properties, with golf course and airstrip, to more simple resorts. All have excellent uncrowded beaches and offer a range of activities on the Lake. These hotels are all low rise and quite separate from each other, giving the visitor a sense of privacy and isolation. Their locations, just off the M10 road, make them readily accessible from Lilongwe or Blantyre. Most impressive is the recently refurbished Club Makokola, neighbour to the popular Sunbird Nkopola Lodge.

MANGOCHI
is actually sited between Lakes Malawi and Malombe but it is still seen as especially associated with the former. Previously called Fort Johnston, it was established to limit the slave traffic moving northwards towards the Lake and on to Zanzibar. Today, Mangochi has a number of historical monuments dating back to the beginning of the twentieth century. These include a clock tower erected in memory of Queen Victoria and a Hotchkiss gun taken from the Gwendolen, a gun boat which patrolled Lake Malawi from 1889 to 1940. Alongside the clocktower is a simple stone memorial to the 145 lives lost when the mv Viphya sank in 1946. There is also a museum and modern Catholic Cathedral in the town. Although just off the main M3 road, Mangochi is certainly worth visiting.

MWABVI WILDLIFE RESERVE
located at the southernmost tip of Malawi. Under 350 sq km it is the smallest of the Malawian reseerves, and also the least accessible. Nevertheless it boasts a variety of habitats unequalled by the larger reserves, and, because of its remoteness, a wilderness atmosphere that is redolent of the old Africa of Livingstone and Stanley.

Travel through the park is only possible by 4-wheel drive, or on foot, but the reserve is manned, and game walks can be arranged with the staff. Sadly, wildlife has declined in this area, although lions do occasionally still visit from neighbouring Mozambique and the intrepid hiker may still see Nyala and other antelope, and buffalo can be heard bathing in the Mwabvi river of an evening.

However, a recent welcome development is the establishment of Project African Wilderness (PAW). This is an organisation formed to protect and restore the Mwabvi Wildlife Reserve. Its aim is to work with local people and the Government of Malawi and integrate social, economic and environmental solutions to create a sustainable future for the reserve and improve local community development.