CENTRAL MALAWI

Most international visitors to Malawi arrive at Lilongwe, the capital; hence their first view of the country is the Central Region. It gives easy access to the rest of the country, including the Lake, as well as being an exciting region in its own right.

Anyone staying in the Central Region and not venturing outside its limits could be forgiven for being unaware that the region is actually part of the Central African Plateau. Gently undulating landscapes give the area the appearance of a plain and its altitude of some 4000ft (1200m) is not immediately evident. Only in the east, close to the Lake, where the plateau forms the edge of the Great Rift Valley, do its occasionally steep sides reveal the truth.

The plateau is crossed by numerous rivers making their separate ways to the Lake and, here and there, isolated hills, called inselbergs, punctuate the gentle landscapes. North-east of Lilongwe is Dowa, a steep–sided plateau adding another 1000ft (300m) to the general altitude. To the south a narrow upland rib forms the border with Mozambique – this is the Dedza Highlands.

The scenery in Central Malawi is less dramatic than elsewhere in the country but it has the same attractive variety that makes Malawi a wonderful place to tour. Its importance stems largely from the fact that its regional centre, Lilongwe, is also the national capital. This, and the pivotal position of the region, give central Malawi a status which distinguishes it from the rest of the country.

Though not in Malawi's Central Region, or actually in Malawi at all, Zambia's South Luangwa National Park, one of the continent's greatest game reserves, is most easily accessed from Lilongwe.

Lilongwe became Malawi’s capital in 1975, a role previously filled by Zomba. It owes its status to Dr Hastings Banda, the country’s first President, who was born just north of the town. The Old Town is distinct and separate from the new Capital City. While the former has all the appearance of a traditional African settlement, the City has much in common with other twentieth century urban developments around the world. Its gleaming modern buildings in their spacious garden-like settings, contrasts with the hustle and bustle of Old Town. Both of these different parts of the town are worth touring. The modern shops of the City are complemented by the exciting street and walled markets of Old Town. Lilongwe’s range of services and facilities is unsurpassed except, possibly, in Blantyre. The State House is now the seat of parliament and the Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary lies between the Old and New towns. Within the Sanctuary is the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre - a new and exciting 'People and Wildlife' animal rescue and education facility.

DEDZA
Lying just over 80km south-east of Lilongwe, Dedza is a town of interest for a variety of reasons. At 1600m (5300ft) it is the highest town in the country. It sits in a beautiful landscape of forests and highlands, with the tree-covered Dedza Mountain rising up immediately behind the town.

The area has been settled since pre-historic times and artistic traditions old and new are still to be found. At the Dedza Pottery craftsmen can be viewed in the workshops and factory, producing a variety of items, from mugs and dinner services to table lamps and tiles. Many are decorated with brightly coloured designs or local scenes and all are sold at the factory shop. Dedza Pottery products are found all round Malawi, as well as being sold for export. With a charming tea shop selling delicious cakes, the pottery centre is a popular stop between Lilongwe and Blantyre. New in 2007 is the Dedza Pottery Lodge - offering the chance to stay at Dedza, and see something of this wonderful area, including visits to a local village.

In the forested granite hills around Dedza is the Chongoni Rock Art Area. Numerous natural shelters house ancient rock paintings which constitute the densest cluster of rock art found in central Africa. They reflect the comparatively scarce tradition of farmer rock art as well as paintings by BaTwa hunter-gatherers who inhabited the area from the late Stone Age. The symbols in the rock art, which are strongly associated with women, still have cultural relevance amongst the Chewa, and the sites are actively associated with ceremonies. The area has recently been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, to the east of the region and near the Lake, is one of the two large game areas in the Central Region. Its vast 700 sq miles (1800 sq km) is of rugged terrain crossed by a number of rivers which tumble down the edge of the escarpment as they make their ways to the Lake. Most of the reserve is miombo woodland with large patches of tall grasses and occasional areas of rainforest. This is a wonderful example of true wilderness which particularly attracts those who wish to enjoy a walking safari, fishing and climbing. The reserve is difficult to access because there are few roads or driveable tracks. The range of mammals is as good as anywhere in Malawi although the environment makes viewing difficult. Birdlife is prolific with giant kingfishers and palm nut vultures among the 130 recorded species.

DZALANYAMA FOREST RESERVE
This Reserve is approximately 40 km south-west of Lilongwe in a range of hills which bear the same name. The forest is a great place for exploring, trekking, and mountain biking. The birdlife is very good, including a couple of rare species, the olive-headed weaver and Stierling’s woodpecker. The variety of flora is interesting and includes some wonderful ferns.

KASUNGU NATIONAL PARK
In the west of the Central Region, and bordering Zambia, is Kasungu National Park, an 800 sq mile (2100 sq km) area of natural woodland andbush with occasional stretches of more open grass. Poaching has reduced the number of some species of animals but there is still of wildlife to be seen. Elephants and antelopes are common, as are small herds of buffalo and zebra. Predators include leopards, hyenas, servals and jackals. There is a significant number of hippos in the lake at Lifupa and, as elsewhere in Malawi, the birdwatcher is well catered for.

This is a park which is relatively easy to drive around. Access to the park has been greatly improved in recent years and it is relatively easy to reach from Lilongwe (approx. 100 miles/160km).

SALIMA & SENGA BAY
Standing back from the central lakeshore is an important service and trading centre, the town of Salima. Close to the junction of the M14 road to Lilongwe and the lakeshore highway (M5), the town is 10 miles (16 km) inland from Senga Bay. This is a very busy little town with an interesting market and all the usual services.To the east of Salima town is Senga Bay. The beautiful bay is only one and a half hours' drive from Lilongwe.

NKHOTAKOTA
Often, but confusingly, described as the largest traditional village in Africa, Nkhotakota is rich in history. Visited by Dr Livingstone in 1863, it was then a major centre for the slave trade. From the lakeshore here, tens of thousands of slaves were shipped across the Lake and then force-marched to the coast. The slave trade, with its strong Arab connections, has meant that the Muslim faith is well represented in today’s town. In 1960 Dr Banda chose Nkhotakota for his first political rally on his release from prison and prior to Malawi gaining its independence.

The modern-day Nkhotakota Pottery is an off-shoot of the more famous Dedza Pottery. As well as being able to see potters at work and buy items from the shop, it is also possible to take a pottery course. Thirty miles north of Nkhotakota is the settlement of Dwangwa which is split in two by the M5 road. This town is greatly influenced and determined by its giant sugar estate but, by the lakeshore, is a fishing community.

SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK (ZAMBIA)
Just across the border, in neighbouring Zambia, is one of Africa’s greatest game reserves. The Luangwa river threads its way across the floor of a section of the Great Rift valley with the National Park occupying 3,500 sq miles (9050 sq km).
The park is easily reached from Lilongwe with Mfuwe, at the park entrance, just 45minutes away by air or about half a day’s drive. Once inside the park, the opportunities for game viewing are unsurpassed. The Luangwa river is especially attractive to game in the dry season and most of the lodges are in the riverine stretches.

The park is particularly popular for walking safaris but drives are available throughout the vast area and, unlike many of Africa’s famous reserves, it’s still uncrowded with vehicles. The large number of species and high stock levels make this an ideal reserve to see great herds of buffalo and varieties of antelope, hippos and crocodiles, zebra and giraffes. Some of the subspecies, like the Thornicroft giraffe, are peculiar to South Luangwa. The chances of seeing leopards (at night) are probably better here than anywhere else in Africa. By day, lions are commonly seen.

Accommodation varies from the luxurious to the simple, with bushcamps being especially attractive. We can organise trips into South Luangwa National Park combining a visit with tours of north or south Malawi. The best time to visit is between April and December with the latter months in this period being ideal.