Malawi
Known as "The Warm Heart of Africa",Malawi is a tiny, landlocked country just south of Tanzania, east of Zambia and north-west of Mozambique. Although small by African standards, the country has an immense diversity of scenery and wildlife. Although little known and upstaged by its more famous northern neighbours, Malawi offers the visitor unparalleled African beauty - unspoilt wilderness coupled with its warm and friendly people and varying landscapes makes this a beautiful holiday destination like no other.
The main attraction is its inland sea, the freshwater Lake Malawi, Africa's third largest lake and unique habitat to the worlds greatest collection of fish, including the famous Malawian cichlids (known to those who have aquariums at home).
However Malawi also has its shares of beautiful highlands, with a series of escarpments in the Central African plateau, and the Shire River which is in the Great East African Rift Valley. The Nyika plateau, Dowa Highlands and teh great massifs of Zomba and Mulanje (central Africa's highest peak) are all part of Malawi's beautiful landscape. Then there are the tranquil forest, streams and waterfalls which add to the natural beauty and are home to diverse wildlife and plants.
Activity and Adventure
Culture and History - Malawi is steeped in history, from pre-historical sites in the Karonga district and the Stone Age rock paintings near Dedza to the more recent colonial history preserved in buildings dating from David Livingstone's era (hence the strong connection between Malawi and Scotland) and the defeat of the Arab slave trade documented in the museums at Blantyre.
The country is rich in culture and the people warm, friendly and welcoming. There is plenty of opportunity to visit local villages and learn about tradition and culture and first-hand experience of daily life in a typical Malawian home.
Wildlife Safaris - unlike their more famous northern neighbours, Malawi boasts large areas of unspoilt wilderness where one can get up close to hippo, elephant and other animals and birds. Malawi is fabulous for bird watching as its unique and diverse landscapes are home to more than 500 endemic and migratory species of birds. Apart from traditional safaris in 4-wheel drive vehicles, one can observe wildlife via boating safaris particularly on the Shire river, where one can observe a whole range of wildlife coming to drink - from hippo and elephant to a variety of antelope and birds. There are also walking and cycling safaris which allow you to explore areas off the beaten track.
Water Sports - Lake Malawi provides the opportunity for many different kinds of water-based activity - the lake boasts the best freshwater snorkelling and scuba diving sites in the world. Most of the lodges and hotels along the lakeshore are equipped for different water-based activities and there are several PADI dive centres dotted around the lake. The lake is home to the biggest collection of freshwater fish and visibility in the clear waters of the lake is up to 30 metres particularly during the months between June and December. Kayaking and sailing are other water based activities that are available, and if one wants to sample the more traditional way of getting across the lake, then take a trip on the famous MV ILALA, the local water-bus!
Specialist Activities - Mountain biking and Horse riding safaris are amongst the most popular outdoor adventures and wonderful ways of exploring Malawi's diverse landscapes. There are also trekking and walking activities to be enjoyed. Rock climbing is also available on Mount Mulanje. Other specialist activities include yoga holidays and art safaris. Pottery classes are also available. For keen botanists,Malawi offers visitors unique displays of tropical plants and endemic orchid species.
Contact us for more information or to book a holiday to Malawi.
MALAWI'S MAIN ATTRACTIONS
The country has three distinct areas - the Central Part, the south and the north:
Central Malawi
Most international visitors to Malawi arrive at Lilongwe, the capital;
hence their first view of the country is the Central Region. It gives
easy access to the rest of the country, including the Lake, as well as
being an exciting region in its own right.
Anyone
staying in the Central Region and not venturing outside its limits
could be forgiven for being unaware that the region is actually part of
the Central African Plateau. Gently undulating landscapes give the area
the appearance of a plain and its altitude of some 4000ft (1200m) is
not immediately evident. Only in the east, close to the Lake, where the
plateau forms the edge of the Great Rift Valley, do its occasionally
steep sides reveal the truth.
The
plateau is crossed by numerous rivers making their separate ways to the
Lake and, here and there, isolated hills, called inselbergs, punctuate
the gentle landscapes. North-east of Lilongwe is Dowa, a steep–sided
plateau adding another 1000ft (300m) to the general altitude. To the
south a narrow upland rib forms the border with Mozambique – this is
the Dedza Highlands.
The scenery in Central Malawi is
less dramatic than elsewhere in the country but it has the same
attractive variety that makes Malawi a wonderful place to tour. Its
importance stems largely from the fact that its regional centre,
Lilongwe, is also the national capital. This, and the pivotal position
of the region, give central Malawi a status which distinguishes it from
the rest of the country.
Though not in Malawi's Central Region, or actually in Malawi at all,
Zambia's South Luangwa National Park, one of the continent's greatest
game reserves, is most easily accessed from Lilongwe.
Lilongwe be
came
Malawi’s capital in 1975, a role previously filled by Zomba. It owes
its status to Dr Hastings Banda, the country’s first President, who was
born just north of the town. The Old Town is distinct and separate from
the new Capital City. While the former has all the appearance of a
traditional African settlement, the City has much in common with other
twentieth century urban developments around the world. Its gleaming
modern buildings in their spacious garden-like settings, contrasts with
the hustle and bustle of Old Town. Both of these different parts of the
town are worth touring. T
he
modern shops of the City are complemented by the exciting street and
walled markets of Old Town. Lilongwe’s range of services and facilities
is unsurpassed except, possibly, in Blantyre. The State House is now
the seat of parliament and the Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary lies between
the Old and New towns. Within the Sanctuary is the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre - a new and exciting 'People and Wildlife' animal rescue and education facility.
Dedza - Lying just over 80km south-east of Lilongwe, Dedza is a town of
interest for a variety of reasons. At 1600m (5300ft) it is the highest
town in the country. It sits in a beautiful landscape of forests and
highlands, with the tree-covered Dedza Mountain rising up immediately
behind the town.
The area has
been settled since pre-historic times and artistic traditions old and
new are still to be found. At the Dedza Pottery craftsmen can be viewed
in the workshops and factory, producing a variety of items, from mugs
and dinner services to table lamps and tiles. Many are decorated with
brightly coloured designs or local scenes and all are sold at the
factory shop. Dedza Pottery products are found all round Malawi, as
well as being sold
for export. With a charming tea shop selling delicious cakes, the
pottery centre is a popular stop between Lilongwe and Blantyre. New in 2007 is the Dedza Pottery Lodge - offering the chance to stay at Dedza, and see something of this wonderful area, including visits to a local village.
In the forested granite hills around Dedza is the Chongoni Rock Art
Area. Numerous natural shelters house ancient rock paintings which
constitute the densest cluster of rock art found in central Africa.
They reflect the comparatively scarce tradition of farmer rock art as
well as paintings by BaTwa hunter-gatherers who inhabited the area from
the late Stone Age. The symbols in the rock art, which are strongly
associated with women, still have cultural relevance amongst the Chewa,
and the sites are actively associated with ceremonies. The area has
recently been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, to the east of the region and near the Lake, is one of the
two large game areas in the Central Region. Its vast 700 sq miles (1800
sq km) is of rugged terrain crossed by a number of rivers which tumble
down the edge
of the escarpment as they make their ways to the Lake. Most of the
reserve is miombo woodland with large patches of tall grasses and
occasional areas of rainforest. This is a wonderful example of true
wilderness which particularly attracts those who wish to enjoy a
walking safari, fishing and climbing. The reserve is difficult to
access because there are few roads or driveable tracks. The range of
mammals
is as good as anywhere in Malawi although the environment makes
viewing difficult. Birdlife is prolific with giant kingfishers and palm
nut vultures among the 130 recorded species.
Dzalanyama Forest Reserve
This
Reserve is approximately 40 km south-west of Lilongwe in a range of
hills which bear the same name. The forest is a great place for
exploring, trekking, and mountain biking. The birdlife is very good,
including a couple of rare species, the olive-headed weaver and Stie
rling’s woodpecker. The variety of flora is interesting and includes some wonderful ferns.
Kasungu National Park
In the west of the Central Region, and bordering Zambia, is Kasungu
National Park, an 800 sq mile (2100 sq km) area of natural woodland and
bush
with occasional stretches of more open grass. Poaching has reduced the
number of some species of animals but there is still of wildlife to be
seen. Elephants and antelopes are common, as are small herds of buffalo
and zebra. Predators include leopards, hyenas, servals and jackals.
There is a significant number of hippos in the lake at Lifupa and, as
elsewhere in Malawi, the birdwatcher is well catered for.
This is a park which is relatively easy to drive around. Access to the park has been greatly
improved in recent years and it is relatively easy to reach from
Lilongwe (approx. 100 miles/160km).
Salima and Senga Bay
Standing
back from the central lakeshore is an important service and trading
centre, the town of Salima. Close to the junction of the M14 road to
Lilongwe and the lakeshore highway (M5), the town is 10 miles (16 km)
inland from Senga Bay. This is a very busy little town with an
interesting market and all the usual services.To the east of Salima town is Senga Bay. The beautiful bay is only one and a half hours' drive from Lilongwe.
Nkhotakota
Often, but confusingly, described as the largest traditional village in
Africa, Nkhotakota is rich in history. Visited by Dr Livingstone in
1863, it was then a major centre fo
r
the slave trade. From the lakeshore here, tens of thousands of slaves
were shipped across the Lake and then force-marched to the coast. The
slave trade, with its strong Arab connections, has meant that the
Muslim faith is well represented in today’s town. In 1960 Dr Banda
chose Nkhotakota for his first political rally on his release from
prison and prior to Malawi gaining its independence.
The modern-day Nkhotakota Pottery is an off-shoot of the more famous
Dedza Pottery. As well as being able to see potters at work and buy
items from the shop, it is also possible to take a pottery course. Thirty
miles north of Nkhotakota is the settlement of Dwangwa which is split
in two by the M5 road. This town is greatly
influenced and determined by its giant sugar estate but, by the
lakeshore, is a fishing community.
South Luangwa National Park (Zambia)
Just
across the border, in neighbouring Zambia, is one of Africa’s greatest
game reserves. The Luangwa river threads its way across the floor of a
section of the Great Rift valley with the National Park occupying 3,500
sq miles (9050 sq km).
The park is easily reached from Lilongwe
with Mfuwe, at the park entrance, just 45minutes away by air or about
half a day’s drive. Once inside the park, the opportunities for game
viewing are unsurpassed. The Luangwa river is especially attractive to
game in the dry season and most of the lodges are in the riverine
stretches.
The
park is particularly popular for walking safaris but drives are
available throughout the vast area and, unlike many of Africa’s famous
reserves, it’s still uncrowded with vehicles. The large number of
species and high stock levels make this an ideal reserve to see great
herds of buffalo and varieties of antelope, hippos and crocodiles,
zebra and giraffes. Some of the subspecies, like the Thornicroft
giraffe, are peculiar to South Luangwa. The chances of seeing leopards
(at night) are probably better here than anywhere else in Africa. By
day, lions are commonly seen.
Accommodation varies from the luxurious to the simple, with bushcamps being especially attractive. We can organise trips into South Luangwa National Park combining a visit with
tours of north or south Malawi. The best time to visit is between April
and December with the latter months in this period being ideal.
Click here for more information on Zambia.
Southern Malawi
The southern third of the country is its most populated, developed and
varied region. It is also the part which shows the greatest European
influence. With Blantyre-Limbe forming the commercial "capital" of
Malawi, it is the region best known and most visited by those coming
from overseas.
South
Malawi is a region of physical contrasts. Much of the area is dominated
by the River Shire (pronounced shiray) which snakes its way southwards
from the Lake still running through the rift which is occupied by the
Lake. The river falls some 1300ft (400m) from its exit from the Lake to
the point in the south where it crosses into Mozambique. This fall
brings it to just 125ft (40m) above sea level. On its journey
southwards, the Shire crashes over falls and rapids (which hindered
David Livingstone’s upstream journey in the past) but has its more
leisurely stretches though broad plains.
There are two
substantial lakes in the region: Malombe and Chilwa. The River Shire
flows through Lake Malombe which is just 6ft (2m) below Lake Malawi.
The lake has attracted a number of fishing villages to its shores.
Chilwa, east of Zomba, is part marsh and part lake. It is accessible
from Zomba and is an interesting place to visit.
South Malawi is certainly not all plains and valleys. This is the
region of central Africa’s highest peak, Mount Mulanje, which rises to
nearly 10000ft (3000m). Impressiv
ely,
Mulanje is only seventy miles from Malawi’s lowest point, just over
100ft (30m). Not too far from Mulanje is the region’s other great
massif, the Zomba Plateau. This table-like mountain is over 6000ft
(1800m) above sea level with sheer scarp-like edges.
To
the west of the Middle Shire Valley is the continuation of the Dedza
Highlands and to the east is a high ridge, the Shire Highlands, a
plateau area standing at 3300ft (1000m). Blantyre stands on this
plateau but is surrounded by isolated peaks which stretch to over
5000ft (1500m).
The Lower Shire Valley is a broad flat plain of which there are
excellent views as one descends the Thyolo escarpment from the plateau
on the southern route out of Blantyre. Much is cultivated, including
sugar estates, and the scenery greatly contrasts with that in any other
part of Malawi. A national park and two game reserves are to be found
here. At the southern end of the valley is Elephant Marsh, once the
home of thousands of elephants but now famous for its birdlife. This
natural marsh changes in size as rainfalls fluctuate. One day it may be
drained to provide agricultural land.
Without the cooling effect of high altitude, the Lower Shire Valley is
where Malawi reveals its tropical location by high temperatures,
especially in November-December.
Blantyre-Limbe, is the country’s
commercial capital and the largest urban area in Malawi, with a current population in excess of half a million. This settlement has its origins with the Scottish missionaries from the
time of David Livingstone (It is named after Livingstone’s birthplace
in Scotland.) Today it is unquestionably the centre of Malawi’s
industry and commerce. Strictly two towns, Limbe and Blantyre form a
continuous urban area yet retain their individualities and separate
cores. Blantyre has the status and much of the administrative functions
but Limbe is the more industrial.
The centre of
Blantyre is conveniently compact with most of the services and shops
around its triangular central core. This compactness belies the
suburban sprawl reaching up towards the surrounding hills.
Blantyre
has a number of historical buildings of interest. These include the
original town hall (Old Boma) and Mandala House, built in 1882 as the
headquarter of the African Lakes Company. It was Malawi's first
two-storey building and is believed now to be the country's oldest
house. Perhaps the most impressive is St Michael and All Angels church,
built by men with no training in architecture, construction or even
brick-making.
Visits can also be made to the Museum of
Malawi and Carlsberg Brewery, which lie bewteen the two town centres,
as well as the tobacco auction floors on the edge of Limbe. Both towns
have a good range of shops, markets and services. Blantyre-Limbe has
its own international airport at Chileka.
Zomba, is the former capital of the
country and seat of government, just forty miles north of Blantyre. In a beautiful setting below the
plateau of the same name, this was the first settlement of the colonial
administration. It has some interesting buildings and
monuments.
The Cobbe Barracks are home to what were the King’s African Rifles (now
the Malawi Rifles) and a clocktower serves as their World War I
memorial. The Gymkhana Club and old Residency of the first commissioner
of Nyasaland are wonderful relics of the town's colonial past. Zomba is
also home to the University of Malawi, the old parliament buildings and
one of the country’s State Houses. A small botanical garden and
wonderfully sited golf course make the most of the lush low slopes of
the plateau. Some 15 km (9 miles) or so outside Zomba is the notorious
Mikuyu Jail, where Dr Banda incarcerated many of his political
prisoners. There is simple accommodation in the town but the Zomba
Plateau is often the choice of tourists.
The Zomba
Plateau is a unique great slab of a mountain rising to 6000ft (1800m),
it has vast tracts of cedar, pine and cypress but elsewhere the
vegetation is wild and mixed. The plateau top is criss-crossed by
streams and there are tumbling waterfalls and still lakes. There are
driveable tracks right round the top from which are views of such
splendour that they were described in colonial times as "the best in
the British Empire". Whether walking or driving, there is always
something to see. Wildlife includes
leopards, although sightings are rare. More in evidence are giant
butterflies and, on the lower slopes, baboons. Birdlife includes the
long-crested eagle and the augur buzzard.
Liwonde National Park - Although only 220 sq miles (580 sq km), Liwonde is perhaps the most
popular of all the game parks. It is about 100 miles (160 km) north of
Blantyre and only rather more than half that distance from the hotels
on the southern Lakeshore. Additionally, game viewing is enhanced
because the River Shire flows along its western border.

Wildlife includes quite large numbers of elephants and the river
attracts countless hippos and crocodiles. Antelope include kudu, sable
and bushbuck. There are lions
and leopards and, more recently, the black rhino has been
re-introduced. Birdlife is exceptionally varied. The river attracts
fish eagles and weaver birds build their nests in the thin woodland.
Pel’s fishing owl is often seen at dusk along the river’s edge.
Lower Shire Valley - South
west of Blantyre, the Shire river enters its final phase before leaving
the country and joing the great Zambezi in Mozambique. This is the
Lower Shire Valley, an extension of the Rift Valley and home to no less
than three national parks/wildlife reserves. The river descends to the
lower valley via a series of rapids and waterfalls before broadening
out to meander along a wide floodplain utilised by vast sugar
plantations. These are Malawi's lowest areas, with altitudes below 50
metres above sea level. Access d
own
to the Lower Shire Valley is along the M1 south of Blantyre and down
the steep Thyolo Escarpment, which affords glorious views into the
valley. Once in the valley, game vieiwng is offered in the Majete Wildlife Reserve, Lengwe National Park and Mwabvi Wildlife Reserve.
Another important element of the Lower Shire Valley is its cultural heritage. The Lower Shire Heritage Trust’s
objective is to preserve and promote the culture of the Lower Shire
Valley and the traditional ways of life of the people of the area. At
the gate of the park is a heritage centre – Tisunge! (which is the
Chi Chewa for ‘Let us preserve!’) – Lower Shire Heritage Centre –
boasting a small museum, an arts & craft shop, a library, and there are plans
for a children’s club, a repository and a weaving area. Many
ethnographic objects, from traditional and modern culture, have been
collected in the villages with the aid of staff from the Department of
National Parks, the Department of Culture and many volunteers. These
objects, together with archaeological findings and the history and
environment of the park, shall form part of the exhibit which is in the
process of being set up. The Trust, through Tisunge! has also initiated
several projects relating to the preservation of culture and the
environment.
Before Livingstone’s arrival the Lower
Shire Valley was famous for its weaving industry using locally grown
cotton. In colonial times the raw cotton was so
ld
to the English and shipped to England where the cloth was made and
hence the weaving industry in Malawi completely disappeared. The cotton
is still locally grown and the Trust, with the aid of the National
Museum of Malawi in Blantyre, has reintroduced the traditional weaving,
spinning and dying in the villages surrounding Lengwe National Park.
The people have picked up the trade and this locally made, beautiful,
cloth is now sold at the Tisunge! arts & craft shop.
The Trust also aims to assist in the preservation of the environment by
planting indigenous trees along the Nkhombedzi river to strengthen its
banks. This river that runs through the park and the surrounding
villages is prone to flooding. The planting and care of the trees is
the responsibility of the local football and netball teams. This year
the Trust hopes to start a small plantation of 10,000 indigenous trees
on land made available by one of the local Group Village Headman –
Chief Singano – who himself is an ardent conservationist. Visits and guided tours to Tisunge! and other cultural sites in the area can be arranged.
Mount Mulanje
The
scale of this truly magnificent mountain has to be seen to be
appreciated. Its bare rock flanks tower to almost 10000ft (3000m),
dwarfing all that surrounds it. It lies to the east of Blantyre and is
easily accessible. Visitors can drive round the foot of the massif in a
day but even more attractive is to trek and camp on the mountains.
There are choices between quite gentle walking and serious climbing. Arrangement can be made to hire camping equipment and the services of guides.
Once on the mountain the vegetation changes with altitude and there’s
plenty of wildlife from the klipspringer, a tiny antelope, to various
other small mammals and, of course, a variety of birds. The latter
include buzzard, the black eagle and countless white-necked ravens.
Fishing for trout is possible in the River Lichenya which drains the
south-western slopes.
Thyolo Tea Estates
Between Blantyre and Mount Mulanje are the Thyolo (pronounced "Cho’lo") tea estates. Tea has been grown here
since 1908 and the
primly trimmed bushes (strictly trees) give the whole area the
appearance of a neatly kept but vast garden. By arrangement it is
possible to tour some of the estates and see something of the work of
these plantations.
Malawian tea can now be found in many local supermarkets in the United Kingdom particularly in the Fairtrade products section.
Lake Malawi National Park
This is the world’s first freshwater national park and a World Heritage Site, and
is situated at Cape Maclear. The park includes a land area around the cape and
bay as well as the Lake and islands up to 100 metres (330ft) off shore.
Here is a veritable aquarium of tropical fish providing a colourful
kaleidoscopic display. The countless thousands of freshwater fish, the mbuna,
are more abundant and varied here than anywhere else in the world.
Boats are available for hire and the fish will feed directly from the
hand. Away from the Lake, the park has baboons, antelope and hyrax,
and, of course, there is a great variety of birdlife including fish
eagles, cormorants and hamerkops.
Excellent new up-market operations at Cape Maclear combine accommodation with lake activities. Danforth Yachting have a lakeside lodge as well as a 38ft catamaran; while Mumbo Island and Domwe Island Camps offer idyllic island getaways. Cape Mac Lodge offers accommodation and activities from Chembe village. However the new Pumulani Lodge, already world renown is one of Lake Malawi's top lodges.
On
the southern lakeshore is the evocatively named Monkey Bay, but the
visitor is more likely to see signs of industry rather than monkeys.
This is a little Lake port with a sheltered harbour behind the Cape
Maclear headland. It is a construction and repair centre for the Lake’s
limited shipping.
The greatest concentration of lodges and hotels is on the Southern Lakeshore between Mangochi and Monkey Bay. Along this stretch are half
a dozen or so hotels, most with adjacent camping sites. They vary from
sophisticated properties, with golf course and airstrip, to more simple
resorts. All have excellent uncrowded beaches and offer a range of
activities on the Lake. These hotels are all low rise and quite
separate from each other, giving the visitor a sense of privacy and
isolation.
Their locations, just off the M10 road, make them readily accessible
from Lilongwe or Blantyre. Most impressive is the recently refurbished Club Makokola, neighbour to the popular Sunbird Nkopola Lodge.
Mangochi is actually sited between Lakes Malawi and Malombe but it is
still seen as especially associated with the former. Previou
sly
called Fort Johnston, it was established to limit the slave traffic
moving northwards towards the Lake and on to Zanzibar. Today,
Mangochi has a number of historical monuments dating back to the
beginning of the twentieth century. These include a clock tower erected
in memory of Queen Victoria and a Hotchkiss gun taken from the Gwendolen,
a gun boat which patrolled Lake Malawi from 1889 to 1940. Alongside the
clocktower is a simple stone memorial to the 145 lives lost when the mv Viphya
sank in 1946. There is also a museum and modern Catholic Cathedral in
the town. Although just off the main M3 road, Mangochi is certainly
worth visiting.
Mwabvi
Wildlife Reserve is located at the southernmost tip of Malawi. Under
350 sq km it is the smallest of the Malawian reseerves, and also the
least accessible. Nevertheless it boasts a variety of habitats
unequalled by

the larger reserves, and, because of its remoteness, a
wilderness atmosphere that is redolent of the old Africa of Livingstone
and Stanley.
Travel through the park is only possible by 4-wheel drive, or on foot, but the reserve is manned, and game walks can
be arranged with the staff. Sadly, wildlife has declined in this area,
although lions do occasionally still visit from neighbouring Mozambique
and the intrepid hiker may still see Nyala and other antelope, and
buffalo can be heard bathing in the Mwabvi river of an evening.
However, a recent welcome development is the establishment of Project
African Wilderness (PAW). This is an organisation formed to protect and
restore the Mwabvi Wildlife Reserve. Its aim is to work with local
people and the Government of Malawi and integrate social, economic and
environmental solutions to create a sustainable future for the reserve
and improve local community development.
Northern Malawi
North Malawi has so much to offer the visitor. Less well known than the
rest of the country and with a lower population density, it is a region
for those who wish to experience Africa at its most unspoilt. Its quite
astonishing beauty is the lasting memory of all who explore this unique
area of central Africa.
The north of Malawi has been
described as the country’s forgotten region. It has a different
character from the rest of the country and this is recognisable in its
scenery, its people and even in its politics.
Except for that part of the region which is occupied by
Lake Malawi, the north is characterised by its great highlands. Most
magnificent of all is the Nyika Plateau, towering to no less than
8000ft (2500m). The rolling landscapes of the centre of the plateau are
described as whalebacks but the edges of this granite core are
scarp-like especially where, in the north-east, it forms the edge of
the Great Rift Valley. The other great highlands area is Viphya. This
undulating plateau rises to 6000ft (1800m) although some peaks stretch
a further 1000ft (300m) higher.
West of the Viphya
Highlands are the Mzimba Plains, a modest 4500ft (1400m) high and
drained by two large rivers, the South Rukuru and the Kasitu which
effectively separate Nyika from Viphya. On the borders with Zambia and
with Tanzania, in the north, other significant ranges include the
Malingu Mountains and the Misuku Hills rising to over 7000ft (2100m)
and 6500ft (2000m) respectively.
Nyika National Park
is Malawi’s largest park with an area approximately 1250 sq miles
(3200 sq km). It extends across the great plateau which is essentially
a granitic dome. The name, Nyika, means "where the water comes from" and it is,
indeed, one of Malawi’s most important catchment areas. The rolling
scenery is at its best in the rainy season when over 200 types of
orchid are in flower. The grasslands of Nyika are rich in wildflowers
in other seasons.
Nyika is wonderful for trekking,
mountain biking and horse riding safaris, as well as more conventional
4x4 excursions. The montane vegetation
attracts large numbers of antelope from the diminutive duiker to eland
and roan. Zebra are common. The park has one of the highest densities
of leopard in Central Africa and there are a number of species of
smaller mammals such as warthog and bushpig. Elephants and buffalo
usually keep to the lower ground on the northern edge of the park but
lions and elephants have recently been seen on the high plateau.
For the birdwatcher, the park has a lot to offer: over 400 species have
been recorded. The rare Denham’s bustard and the wattled crane are
among those to be seen, as is the red-winged francolin - endemic to
Nyika.
There is such a lot to see in the vast park: waterfalls, a neolithic
rock shelter, trout pools and even a ‘magic lake’ are just some of the
attractions.
Mzuzu, is the capital of the north and is a settlement along the
junction of the lakeshore road (M5) and Malawi’s main north-south
highway (M1). The town, which has grown rapidly in recent times, has
one quality hotel,
and a number of simple small hotels/lodges. There is an airport with
scheduled flights to Lilongwe and elsewhere, and a host of other
facilities in the rather crowded town centre.
Vwasa Wildlife Reserve, an area of marsh and plain, with a few rocky
outcrops, is approximately 400 sq miles (1000 sq km) and lies along the
Zambian border north-west of Mzuzu. The reserve has a wonderful mix of vegetation: forest and grassland,
thin woodland and marsh. It is this rich habitat which attracts a splendid
range of birdlife. Nearly 300 species of birds have been recorded
including stork, heron and the white-faced tree duck. Herds of thirty
or forty elephants are regularly to be seen and there are large numbers
of hippos. Lake Kazuni, near the main entrance to the reserve is famous
for its hippos. Buffalo are present in the reserve but their roaming
habits make their sightings less easy to predict. As on Nyika, there
are plenty of smaller mammals.

A particularly interesting place to visit is the Livingstonia Mission.
Sited high above Lake Malawi at 3000ft (900m) there are views of
incredible beauty across the lake to Tanzania. Livingstonia is a
mission settlement dating from 1894 and established by Robert Laws, a
disciple of David Livingstone. The Old Stone House, which was the home
of the Laws family, is now a resthouse and museum.
Manda Wilderness
A massive 100,000 ha area of Mozambique land which runs to the eastern shore of Lake Malawi for
ms
the Manda Wilderness Community Reserve. This is a genuine unspoilt
wilderness - brachystegia and riverine forest, savannah, swamps and
streams, mountains and miles of beaches with crystal clear fresh water.
The reserve has been set up and administered with the commitment and
active involvement of the local communities.
In and
effort to encourage the return of big game, the communities have agreed
to stop the practice of burning the forest and savannah, tree felling,
snaring and hunting with dogs. The ecosyst
em
is already starting to recover. Species found in Niassa Province
ionclude buffalo, zebra, elephant, lion, leopard, sable, roan antelope
and African wild dog. The birdlife in Manda Wilderness is rich and
varied. The crystal clear waters of Lake Malawi provide spectacular
snorkelling and diving, with about 1000 species of brightly coloured
tropical fish. Marine animals include two species of otter and
occasional crocodiles.
Easiest access to Manda is obtained from Malawi's Likoma Island.
Viphya Highlands The forested Viphya is a wonderful area for those seeking a combination
of stunning scenery and solitude. It is an ideal area to unwind but
there are also opportunities for trekking, mountain biking and various other activities.
Likoma Island Off the eastern shore of the Lake is Likoma Island: a little piece of
Malawian territory in Mozambican waters. Its history – the setting up
here of the headqu
arters
of the University Mission to Central Africa (Livingstone’s mission) in
the 1880s – caused it to be retained by Malawi when the Lake was
divided politically after World War II.
Likoma’s claim
to fame is its cathedral (the size of Winchester’s) on which work began
in 1903. This vast building has some most interesting features
including stained glass and carved soapstone.
The island is otherwise somewhat barren although it has some pleasant
beaches. Nearby is another tiny island, Chizumulu, also Malawian
territory. Access to Likoma is currently by boat or charter aircraft.
Nkhata Bay is better described as a large village rather than a town.
It is at the most northerly point on the Lake reached by David
Livingstone. Its small sheltered harbour is a focus for the Lake’s
fishing industry but it is also becoming increasingly important as a
tourist centre
GETTING TO MALAWI
Most visitors arrive by air, landing at Lilongwe or
Blantyre. Lilongwe International Airport lies some 26 km (16 miles)
north of the capital and Chileka Airport is just 13 km (8 miles)
outside Blantyre.
For intercontinental flights from Europe, the
only direct flight is offered by Air Malawi, once a week between London
and Lilongwe. South African Airways operates connecting services
through Johannesburg most days of the week. Kenya Airways has a similar
frequency connecting through Nairobi from London; also operating in
conjunction with KLM from Amsterdam through Nairobi. British Airways
has a weekly service connecting through Nairobi as well as operating
with Air Malawi via the regional hubs of Johannesburg, Lusaka, Dar es
Salaam and Harare. Air Zimbabwe, Ethiopian Airlines offer similar
connecting services through Harare and Addis Ababa respectively.
Regional links between Malawi and Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa and
Zimbabwe are provided by Air Malawi. Links from neighbouring countries
are also provided by an air charter company based in Malawi, the Nyasa Air Taxi. There are also road routes into Malawi from Tanzania, Zambia and Mozambique.
VISAS
A full valid passport is required for entry into Malawi. For tourist
visits, visas are NOT required by citizens of most Commonwealth
countries, the USA, most European Union countries and certain other
countries. Please refer to your nearest Malawi diplomatic mission/high commission.
In the United Kingdom, The Malawi High Commission is situated at:
70 Winnington Rd
London N2 0TX
Tel: +44 (0)20 84555624
Tel (visas): +44 (0)20 32351077
Email: malawihighcom@btconnect.com
BEST TIME TO VISIT
For most people the dry (winter) season is most attractive (i.e.
April/May to October/November). However, some of the best birdwatching
can be had from November to April and the orchids of Nyika are best
seen from December to March/April.